Best Hangboards For Climbing Training In 2023

Hangboards (AKA Fingerboards) are considered to be important climbing tools. The purpose of them is to build strength in your fingers and arms, to improve grip and build up muscles in your arms. Climbers also use them to practice different holds in order to best their climbing prowess. If you have the best hangboard, you can work on a multitude of training techniques to improve your rock climbing skills right there in your home.

The 11 Best Hangboards In 2023 Are:

Most come with full instructions on how to install them. Others even come with the hardware you need to mount on the wall, with pre-drilled holes for easy mounting such that the only task you are left with is to find the best spot for your training.

Before you shop you need to find a spot that has enough space for you to move around. Get a solid wall with strong beams or posts located at the same distance apart, to fit the drilled holes in. Hangboard shopping may seem like a big task, but don’t worry; I have done most of the work for you. The only task left for you is to study this guide and select the best for your money. Not only is there a vast array in the market to choose from, but hangboards also vary greatly in design, but there are hangboards available for everyone according to their level in the sport.

Rock climbing goes with levels and so is hangboarding. There are three major levels of hangboard climbing i.e. beginners, intermediate and advanced. Hangboards are designed to serve each particular level but there are some that cut across all levels. Here is a list of the best hangboards you can buy.

Our Reviews

1. Trango Rock Prodigy Hangboard

Specs

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• Material: Plastic
• Dimensions: 9.1 inch x 12.1 inch (Each half)
• Hold Types: 15+ different grips

In rock climbing, finger strength matters. This is one of the best, most sophisticated hangboards on the market. It helps climbers build their finger strength and precision for the moments they need it most. This has the most useful pinches. The pinches are designed with the thumb on the bottom and the fingers on top. This isolates the forearm and hand muscles used particularly for pinching.

This offer endless possibilities. Has 2, 3, and 4-finger holds, deep and shallow, plus crimp grips and pinch grips with bumpers so that no hand muscle is underworked. You can set it up anywhere; in your garage, living room, office, bedroom to enable you to train anywhere with convenience.

Has a two-piece model that lets you fine-tune the board to your shoulder width and the joint-friendly, ergonomic radius on each hold allows for comfortable workouts and reduces injuries.

It’s multi-textured. The sleek texture on all non-hold areas protects inactive fingers, single texture on all positive surfaces minimizes skin abrasion and the double texture on the sloper, pinch, and jug ensure a stable grip. Note that, the high-friction surface on the board may feel rough at first, but once your calluses have been formed, you’ll never slip off any hold. This is voted top in our list of the best hangboards.

2. Metolius Project Hangboard

Specs

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• Material: Resin
• Dimensions: 24.5″ x 6″ (622 mm x 152 mm)
• Hold Types: Jugs, slopers, pockets of various depths and widths

It’s a compact hangboarding element, an excellent choice for the true dirtbag climber who wants to train with as little investment as possible. This board is best for intermediate to advanced climbers, as the smaller size only offer a limited number of holds.

It has no pinches or mono-pockets but the slopers on top, combined with a couple of jugs, pockets of varying degrees, and edge rails make it a good all-around training climbing board.

If you want something simple and cheap to improve your climbing muscles, then the Metolius Project Training Board is what you need.

3. Escape Climbing Unlimited Hangboard

 

Specs

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• Material: Wood
• Dimensions: 23.5” wide and 6” tall – Top 2.3″ / Deep slot 1.7″ / Middle slot 1.13″ / Shallow slot 0.57″
• Hold Types:

This is durable and versatile, handcrafted from high-quality wood that provides good natural grip with no abrasion on your skin. The dimensions of this are 23.5×6 inches and 2.3 inches at the top. The Escape Climbing Unlimited provides lots of different angles and widths to work on different muscles on your arms and fingers.

You will use this to train different levels of climbing from beginners to advanced levels. It has slots with depths that vary from 0.57 inches to 1.7inches to ensure all finger sizes are well accommodated. It’s a high-quality product which is much better than handboards made from synthetic materials.

4. Yaniro Power Hangboard

Specs

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• Material: Plastic
• Dimensions: 31″ x 10″
• Hold Types:

This product is definitely the best due to its well-designed pockets. The pockets are designed such that you feel like you are wearing gloves, in fact, it’s quite one of the most comfortable fingerboards you can get in the market today. It’s a well-seasoned hangboard that beats real quality and has been a leading product in the field of climbing for many years.

The Yaniro Power is an arch-shaped board with a surface area of 31 inches by 10 inches, big enough to fit any other climbing enhancement feature. Has multiple pockets and edges for practicing various holds and grips; this means you can practice a multitude of workouts using this product. It’s made from a lightly textured synthetic material to give you a good grip when you are training but not so textured to cause abrasion on your fingers, therefore you will be able to work out without many inconveniences.

It comes with six pre-drilled holes and the hardware needed for quick and simple mounting right there in your home. This is a product that will give you quality service right there at home or in your office such that you will no longer find a need to go to the gym.

5. Beastmaker 2000 Fingerboard

Specs

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• Material: Wood
• Dimensions: 23 inch x 6 inch x 2.25 inch
• Hold Types: 5, 35 and 20 degree slopers, multiple pockets from three finger to mono

The Beastmaker 2000 is a versatile climbing hangboard made from natural wood. It’s designed to fit all levels of climbers, from beginners to intermediate to advanced climbers, this product will give you enough possibilities to practice on. It’s such a wonderful product for starters and high-end climbers.

It has slopers at different angles, such as 45-degree, 35-degree, and 20-degree slopers. Also has a medium three finger socket, a smaller three finger socket, and a mouth jug to fit fingers of different sizes and can fit all four fingers. There are also big, little, and in cut rings, two big back pockets, one sloping, and one pad mono plus little and sloping two-finger pockets. This offers you multiple holds and workout options that will help you improve your climbing techniques and also strengthen your fingers.

I would recommend this wooden product as it’s best in natural grip and also because it is the best to be more gentle on your skin. The Beastmaker 2000 comes with the screws and other needed hardware you need for easy installation.

6. So iLL Iron Palm Hangboard

Specs

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• Material: Ultra Bomber Urethane
• Dimensions: 27 in x 11.5 in x 4 in
• Hold Types:Big Slopers , 2 Pinches

With its own unique style of colors and design. It’s made from a very strong and long lasting urethane, measures 27-inches length, 11.5-inches width and is 4 inches deep.

It has unique features such as big slopers, two pinches, and a number of edges to help you work out different fingers and different parts of your arms at intervals. It is also the best for practicing and mastering new holds to develop your overall hangboarding skills. This is an excellent hang board that gives you enough arm and finger challenge to build your finger strength.

This is specifically designed to be mounted above a doorframe or any other place with a raised bar. However, you can buy several of these hangboards to create a perfect climbing wall. It’s very easy to mount. Feel free to purchase the So Ill Iron Palm and practice the many climbing possibilities you have been yearning for.

 

7. Metolius Wood Grips Compact Hangboard

Specs

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• Material: Wood
• Dimensions: 24.5″ x 5.125″ (622 mm x 130 mm)
• Hold Types: jugs, slopers, edges

It’s a compact that measures 24.5-inches by 5-125-inches. It’s a lightweight design that is intended for use indoors like at home or in the office. The natural wood model with perfect features and nice colors will with no doubt look the best in any room of your house and will not clash like many brightly colored synthetic hangboards.

The wood has a smooth texture that is kinder to your skin and is unlikely to cause abrasions to your arms. With this, you can train without any fear of injury or formation of unwanted calluses and blisters. It comes with a full mounting manual for quick and easy installation.

The design includes a combination of edges, pockets, slopers, and edges. This will enable you to customize your training to develop whatever holds you need and as a result build strength in the areas you need it the most. It has a rectangular design and not the arched shape of many products manufactured by Metolius.

8. Metolius Rock Ring 3D Hangboard

Specs

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• Material: Plastic
• Dimensions: 7.25 inch x 5.75 inch x 2.5 inch
• Hold Types: Jug with slot pockets

Metolius Rock Ring 3D is compact and portable that will help you explore various training options in different places. It’s easy to carry such that you can get it in your office or even move out with it during your climbing adventures. This portable training product has two separate units, each of which is flexible with a single-point suspension to give room for rotation of your joints and reduces the risk of injury while training.

It’s a perfect CAD/CAM, symmetrically and ergonomically designed. Has three groves on the fingerboard of different sizes that allow you to practice two, three, and four finger holds. It has a fine texture to ensure a good grip without abrasion on the skin.

This come with a comprehensive guide on how to mount and use it. As I had mentioned earlier, although the hangboard well suits the climbing adventurers mostly on-the-go, it is also possible to mount it permanently on the wall.  It also comes with a complete training guide with workout suggestions and tips.

 

9. Metolius Simulator 3D Hangboard

Specs

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• Material: Plastic
• Dimensions: 28 inch x 8.75 inch
• Hold Types: Jugs, slopers, pockets of various depths and widths

It’s known that Metolius is one of the leading brands in rock climbing products. This is a company that has for many years designed hangboards and other sports products which have won and satisfied many users in the field of climbing. The Metolius Simulator 3D, just like the brand name is also considered the best rock climbing training board by many climbers.

It is a tough, durable and an ergonomic design from resin, measures 28 inches by 8.75 inches and has a textured surface that gives climbers perfect grip while they train. It’s a CAD/CAM designed and manufactured using precision CNC milled technology. It’s also arc-shaped, curved both downwards and outwards for appropriate forearm clearance and to protect your arms from scratches during holds

Also comes with the materials you need for installation and a manual with full instructions for mounting at home. There is also a training guide that offers excellent guidance for beginners on how to use the product for training and to strengthen their fingers. It is available in five color options, so you can choose a color that coordinates with the room where you will mount it.

10. Metolius Contact Hangboard

Specs

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• Material: Plastic
• Dimensions: 32.5″ x 11″ x 2.625″ (826 mm x 279 mm x 67 mm)
• Hold Types: Jugs, slopers, pockets of various depths and widths

It’s quite a large, that measures 32.5-inches length 11 inches width and is 2.625-inches thick. Its greater surface area gives room for more holds and workouts. It’s designed with pinches with varying depths to ensure a holistic workout of your fingers, arms, and shoulders.

Metolius Contact hangboard is symmetrically designed with fine grain texture that provides a good grip without causing abrasions. The training board is also designed to offer the best forearm’s clearance and reduced chances of injury. This is a unique with 11 pockets, four central edges; shallow and deep, two types of slopers, and top mounted pull-up jugs. It comes with mounting hardware and instructions for easy mounting. It also comes with a comprehensive training guide to get you started with your rock climbing training.

11. The Black Peacemaker Hangboard

The unique features of the Black Peacemaker hangboards include a perfect sloper rail, two big jugs, pockets of different sizes, crimp rows and pinches. It has measurements of approximately 27inches length, 8 inches width and 3 inches thickness. The black Peacemaker is designed to attach to either the Blank Slate or the Blank Slate Slim using the two bolts provided, but you can still use it on its own by mounting it on a wall or above a doorframe in your home. The mounting process is not difficult since everything has been provided.

It is made from a durable and versatile resin that is accurately textured to give you a good grip during workouts and with the given options you can comfortably practice on various holds to improve your finger strength.

Factors to Consider When Choosing

As we have just seen, hangboards come in all shapes and sizes meaning it can be difficult to select the right one. You need to consider a number of things before you decide which to purchase. Study this guide to find out how to come up with the right choice of for you.

Location and ease of Mounting

Hangboards are different and it’s important as you weigh your options for one, to consider where you plan to mount it. Some boards are made to be mounted on specific points like on the doorways while others may require additional tools to securely mount them to your wall.

Most of them come with pre-drilled holes and even screws for easy mounting while others require you to dig out your own drills or even purchase an additional board to secure them to the wall instead of mounting directly on the wall to ensure your safety as you hang or climb.

There are others that come with foam padding to prevent damaging your wall. This kind of hangboard is the best particularly for those people seeking a hangboard that won’t damage their wall.

Purpose

When purchasing hangboards, you need to assess your abilities and consider your specific training goals. Hangboarding can be tough on the body so it’s crucial to consider the hangboard that is fit for your level. Some are good for beginners while others are intended for climbers with extensive experience in the sport.

Hold types

If you are aiming at improving your stamina in different hand positions, choose a designed with many grip types. Some offer an assortment of jugs, slopers, edges, and pockets. Boards with a lot of variation and positive holds best-fit beginners, hangboards make it easier to warm up before starting the actual work out.

If you target to improve your finger strength, there are two options on display for you. The first is to decrease the size of the edges of climber’s holds, and the second is to add weight to the climber’s body as they hang from a particular hold. To achieve the best finger gains, it is important to have a board with a progression of holds that become smaller or less positive.

Customizability and size

Most of the hangboards in the market today are customizable to fit different needs. Some have a separate right and left side so hangboards can be mounted at the perfect width for your body. Other boards come with inserts to change edge depths or built-in rotation features to change the angle of holds.

It is also worth considering the size and space required to hang your board as well as your training routine. If you’re always on the go, check out the small, portable options that can be easily carried in your backpack. Some take up very little space but can be customized to meet a progression of weight. On the other hand, if you have a bigger training space in your home you could indulge in a larger board that has a lot to offer.

Material and texture

I recommend feeling and testing the surface of the available hangboards in the shop before making your purchase. Most hangboards are made of either plastic, polyester resin, or wood. You need a board that is comfortable to hang on.

Resin boards can be molded into any shape thus offering many different hold types. The friction is also greater due to the fine grained texture, but hang boards can be uncomfortable on the skin. To smoothen them a bit, you can sand down the sharp edges.

Wooden hangboards, on the other hand, can be more comfortable on the skin but they are not fit for everyone. Hangboards offer reduced friction and due to this, some people find them difficult to grip during grueling sessions. Wooden boards also offer limited grip types. To find the right product, you need to consider all the relevant factors and compare the products.

Price

The price of one of the primary decision-making factors to look at when choosing which one to buy. Note that the price of a hangboard is determined by the brand, the material, the size, and where you buy. Sometimes, the price does not reflect the quality as it is possible to get a good quality rock climbing hangboard at a cheaper price. Buying one online is often the best option because you are given a chance to review not only the price of different hangboards but also different markets and their prices, so you have a better chance to compare.

How to Prevent Injuries

The wrong hangboarding can result in injuries. If you are a beginner in this sport, you probably are not aware of what may result in injuries. I am going to take you through some of the safety precautions to take to ensure a progressive and injury free training.

Do not full crimp

As a beginner, use only the first two grips and most advisable to use a half crimp.

Retract your shoulders

Any form of hanging exercise requires locked down shoulders. Your shoulders should not sag up by your ears. Keep them bulging a few centimeters from your ears.

Warm up

Every time you fail to warm up before starting, you risk injuring yourself. Take at least 15 minutes warm-up to ensure blood circulates in your fingers and arms as required to acquire the right temperature.

Warm-down

After every training session, remember to stretch your body a little. Stretching exercises also ensures blood circulation especially in your fingers that may be feeling numb after a long exercise. I would recommend a perfect after-hangboarding massage. This improves blood flow and helps relax your muscles.

Don’t advance too fast

Advancing too fast is another cause of injury in hangboarding. It takes at least two months to experience any significant improvement in hangboarding. Before you attempt any tougher edge, be sure of your progress and let yourself flow with the sport and before you know it, you will be an elite.

 

Regardless of your preferred style of climbing and the board you want, finger strength will always be at the center of your quest for a hangboarding tool. You should get one that will constantly help you take your climbing skills from one level to another.  With this guide, you are well equipped with all you needs to get yourself the best hangboards for your indoor and outdoor workouts.